About EBC - the manufacturer

EBC Brakes produce the largest range of brake pads and brake discs in the world with over 5000 part numbers for every type of moving vehicle. The majority of EBC brake discs or brake rotors are also made in the UK.

With modern trends towards cheap imported brake pads and brake rotors EBC Brakes leads the world in its technology, quality control, product performance and customer service.

EBC's product range includes brake pads for cars, trucks and SUV, brake rotors (brake discs) for every rolling vehicle on the planet and even brake pads for wind farms, brake pads for military applications such as the Humvee, various armored cars and even tanks, railway brakes products and all kinds of industrial vehicle brakes.

Types of brake pads manufactured include Kevlar® sintered brakes, ceramic brake pads and carbon long life brake pads. The EBC Brake rotor brake disc range includes cast iron brake rotors or brake discs for automobiles, stainless steel brake rotors for motorcycles, mountain bike brake pads and mountain bike brake rotors and ATV brake pads and rotors.

Over the years the brake market has seen many changes and many brands come and go. Other so called "Famous Names" resort to "Branding" products and having them made by licensees in "emerging market" locations. The headlong rush for example to produce all products in China is a lead than EBC has strongly resisted with its philosophy that such safety products are best hand crafted and made with care and maximum focus on high quality rather than price savings and are designed and researched on an ongoing basis in their own facilities rather than turning a high safety product into a commodity marketed price point product. EBC firmly believe that saving a few pennies on brake pads and brake rotors is false economy.

EBC has no less than 8 dynamometer systems in their factories representing an investment of over £4 million in research along and with their 60 year pedigree of brake material blending you can be sure that brake pads bearing the EBC name will deliver and perform.

The environment is equally important to EBC and brake pads made in their factories have every possible consideration for environmental protection.

What's the difference between Vented & Solid Discs?

The design of the brake discs can vary. Some are simply solid cast iron, but others are hollowed out with fins or vanes joining together the disc's two contact surfaces. This "ventilated" disc design helps to dissipate the generated heat and is commonly used on the more-heavily-loaded front discs.

General guide to fitting brake discs

The following information is presented as a best practice guide and should assist in avoiding some of the most common pitfalls when carrying out this task. This information is relevant each time these parts need replacing, in addition to this the Vehicle Manufacturers instructions for the particular vehicle must be followed.

Ensure all the right tools are at hand. In the course of this task access is gained to areas that are normally unseen, this opportunity should be used to inspect inner walls of tyres, wheels, suspension components, steering and drive components, doing this can help to avoid a further problem.  Care should be taken not to contaminate the new Brake Pads with any oil grease or brake fluid.
 
Brake Discs and Brake Pads should always be replaced in pairs (Axle sets) to ensure efficient and balanced braking.
 
1. With the hand brake applied, chock the wheels as an additional safety precaution.
 
2. Loosen wheel bolts/nuts on the relevant wheels.
 
3. Raise the bonnet and loosen the Brake master cylinder reservoir cap.
 
4. Raise the vehicle using an appropriate Jack and for safety purposes provide additional support with axle stands or similar.
 
5. Remove the relevant road wheels.
 
6. When replacing Brake Discs and Pads the new ones will obviously need more space than the old ones did within the Caliper so now is the time to push the pistons back into the Caliper bodies. This is done by prising the gap between the old Brake pad and Discs with a wide scraper or screwdriver, if only replacing the pads care should be taken not to damage the brake disc face. During this operation the bake fluid is pushed back into the system consequently a regular check should be taken on the level within the master cylinder reservoir to prevent it from overflowing. From this point on, measures should be taken to prevent anyone from sitting in the driver's seat and depressing the brake pedal.
 
7. Remove the Pad retaining clips and pins.
 
8. Remove the Brake Caliper and independently support it's weight with a cable tie or wire i.e. do not let it hang by the Brake hose causing unnecessary strain or damage.
 
9. To remove the disc, undo the disc securing screws and remove the disc from the hub mounting flange.
 
10. Remove all traces of rust, dirt or burrs from the face of the mounting flange. This part of the operation is very important pay particular attention and leave as clean bright metal with no burrs.                  
                                                                                                                                    
11. Clean the anti corrosion protection oil off the new Brake Disc using methalayted spirit or another suitable solvent. Inspect and clean inside of the brake disc, again pay particular attention to the face that sits on the mounting flange, it should have no raised points or burrs.
 
12. Assemble the brake disc onto the Hub Flange. Between the inner Brake Disc and the hub flange do not apply lubricant eg. Copper based lubricant. Tighten brake disc locking screws to manufacturers recommended torque. Brake Discs are made from a cast iron alloy which is a particularly hard material, ideal for the purpose of conducting heat away and giving a long life of friction against the brake pads, on the downside however this makes them also quite brittle, consequently overtightening can cause distortion and cracks!
 
13. On problem vehicles it is necesary to check the ‘run out' of the Brake Disc before assembly this is done by rotating the Brake Disc against a Dial gauge or a fixed point with feeler gauges this should not exceed 0.15mm or 0.006in, take this reading about 10mm in from the outer edge of the disc. If you record a higher reading than 0.15mm disassemble and repeat items 10, 11 and 12 when you refit the brake disc, rotate it through 180 degrees from the first position.

14. Reassemble the brake Caliper and at this point check and that the sliding mechanism is clear, fit the new Brake Pads and depress the brake pedal several times to bring the pads into contact with the Brake Disc. Top up the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir.
 
15. Fit wheel and tighten to manufacturer's recommended tightening torque in the correct sequence usually crosswise but in practice often in two stages clockwise.

16. During the first 200miles (320Km) gently use the brakes as they are ‘bedding in' try and avoid severe braking or high speeds during this period.

What causes brake dust?

There are two known alternatives to asbestos fibres in brake pads. These are steel fibres or "Aramid" fibres such as DuPont Kevlar or Twaron. Aramid fibres have a high unit strength and produce a high quality non-ferrous compound that is superb on high performance brake pads. EBC use Aramid fibres in their Green pads and a SMALL AMOUNT of steel fibre in Red, Yellow and Blue.

Dust is caused for two reasons. The first reason is unavoidable and is a "general use" problem. A small amount of dust cannot be avoided as the pad wears, in most cases the dust from EBC Green pads is 1/3 to 1/2 of the amount observed from original equipment pads. In the case of EBC 6000 series the dust is less than 1/4 of the amount of original fitted semi metallic type pads or other aftermarket semi metallic type pads (those containing steel fibre and carbon particles).

The second and possible reason for dust if this has come on a sport type vehicle application is that the incorrect compound has been recommended. For example if the customer was using Green pads and found excessive dust, he may have needed the Redstuff grade, which exhibits almost zero dust and is a more robust pad having slightly longer lifetime. Redstuff is particularly recommendable on many models of BMW/Audi and muscle cars.

Brake fade explained

All pads contain some organic (living) materials. Resins that bind pad compounds together are organic - petro-chemical products. As these overheat the resins revert to gas and cause the pads to "aquaplane" on a gas film, which is called fade. Some pads only fade once or twice and then settle down (Green fade or bedding in fade). Other, cheaper pads suffer from continual dynamic fade, sometimes at surprisingly low temperatures.

Brake temperatures

Temperatures between the pad and disc do not normally exceed 700°F even in heavy street use. In race use 900-1200°F is common on smaller cars and in Championship Cup race temperatures shoot up to around 1500°F where discs will glow red or orange.

ALWAYS CHOOSE A PAD ADEQUATE FOR YOUR NEEDS. NEVER just choose a race compound because you think you're a hot shot. Many/most race pads need "warm up" and don't become effective till 350°F. NOT ideal for a stoplight situation in urban traffic. EBC Greenstuff is effective from cold and needs no warm up. Even so EBC Green feels stronger as you use the brake harder. We call that progressive braking.

Noise - Light whistling/squeaking (at walking pace)

This noise usually happens as the vehicle is coming to rest and is again typical of a pad that is just bedding in or has been under used. Again the remedy is to allow a few hundred miles for the pads to properly seat and have 100% contact surface against the disc. If the problem occurs intermittently, one good cure is to use the brake severely every day now and again on a safe secluded low traffic piece of road to "de-glaze" the surface of the brake pad. Obviously extreme caution must be used when performing this action.

Screeching (a loud squealing noise when applying the brakes at all times)

The usual reason for this is that the pads have not bedded in. If this has happened during the early life of fitment then it is advisable to wait 300 - 500 miles until the pads are fully bedded in. This noise is also very prevalent when the pads have been fitted to rotors that have not been turned and have grooves or scoring. This will also extend the bed in time.

Graunching (metal on metal noise)

Less usual with EBC's low metallic brake pads. The customer needs to check first of all that the brake pads are not worn out. Brake pads can wear quite quickly especially in situations where the rotors were in poor condition or the callipers had seized, so the first safety aspect is for the customer to evaluate that the pads are not worn out. In spite of the fact that they may have only just recently fitted them. A system fault will accelerate wear in some cases to surprisingly short lifetimes.

Short pad life

This can be due to several things. Seized calliper, poor rotor condition or the incorrect compound. Once the two first points have been eliminated, if the customer was recommended Green upgrade to Red.

If he was already using Red and still has a problem call EBC technical department for further assistance, having the vehicle make, model and type of use ready. It needs to be understood here that many customers take their vehicles to track days, so this question should be asked and of course our warranty on lifetime does not cover any form of racing, performance or autocross use on track days. Also it should be realised that customers have very different performance requirements of their vehicles, some drive far harder than others.

Track day racing

We only recommend using the Yellowstuff compound for track and road use. Bluestuff is suitable for endurance racing.

No complaints of mileage, during track days, will be entertained under warranty by EBC Brakes.

Warranty is invalid if product is used for racing, trackday experience or any other form of competition. There is absolutely no warranty on any EBC product for race use.

Autocross use

In most cases the Greenstuff pads are applicable to this sort of sports application.

Uneven braking - Vehicle pulls to left or right

This is a very dangerous condition and should be analysed immediately by the installing mechanic. It can be caused due to the brake settling down on a poor quality rotor surface (rotor not turned) and can also be the cause of a pad contaminated with lubricant. EBC does not recommend the use of any grease in or around the brake pad, which can severely damage the friction material and cause loss of brake efficiency, but unfortunately some installing mechanics still prefer to use it. If this contaminates the friction surface the pad is ruined and it has to be completely replaced. Always replace pads in sets, left and right, across an axle, never replace the left hand or right hand pads individually. EBC only sell full sets for this exact reason.

Spongy brake pedal

A soft or spongy pedal can often happen during the early life of a pad especially on a vehicle where the rotor condition was poor (not turned). Vehicles should be used for a few miles whilst gently pressing the brake pedal occasionally in a safe road condition to encourage the pads to bed in. If the condition persists return the vehicle to the installing mechanic and ask for the brakes to be "bled" to change the brake fluid. Older brake fluids contain a higher water percentage and can cause a spongy brake.

Brake fluid maintenance - When to change

The condition of the brake fluid is quite important in a vehicle. The type of fluid DOT 3 or 4, should be observed from the cap on the master cylinder on the vehicle and the same exact grade should always be used for top up or replacement. The system should be flushed through with new fluid to change the fluid at least once every two years, according to the vehicle manufacturers recommendations. Failure to do so will result in spongy brakes. Spongy brakes in racing will show up sooner and are a result of the same condition i.e. fluid condition very poor and should be changed.

Compound selection

Green pads should be used for all standard street vehicles.

Red pads should be used on muscle cars, faster and heavier BMW models.

Yellowstuff grade should be used for track days.

Bluestuff endurance grade should be used on heaviest and fastest off highway race use.

SUV's and light trucks should always be recommended EBC's 6000 series - there is no alternative compound for this vehicle segment.

Rapid Guide Passenger Cars - Green

SUV's - 6000 series

Trucks - 6000 series

Muscle Cars - Red

Imports (Cars) - Green

Shims - When do I need them?

Many semi metallic pads (those containing steel fibre) come fitted from the factory or aftermarket suppliers with rubberised metal shims on the back to prevent rattling and squealing. This is because of the type of material they use. At EBC we very rarely use shims because in 99 cases out of 100 we do not get noise, due to the non-metallic nature of our pads.

Friction levels explained

Typical friction levels of original street pads vary from 0,25 up to 0,35 friction factor. EBC Greenstuff has 0,46 friction and users will notice an immediate improvement in brake in most cases. Remember friction level µ is only an "indicator" not a guarantee of brake "torque". Many independent tests in Europe however, have shown EBC Greenstuff to be one of the grippiest compounds on the market today.

Brake rotors

Almost all cars come originally fitted with plain un-drilled or grooved rotors. This is mainly due to manufacturing costs and the fact that rarely are cars designed for sport use out of the factory gate. Higher performance cars such as Porsche and faster BMW's are more recently coming fitted with "through drilled" brake rotors. EBC provide slotted and part drilled sport rotors for many import cars. The advantages of a slot on the brake rotor is it helps to prevent pads from glazing and to brake down the surface gasses which are generated under heavy braking on sport use i.e. track day, autocross or fast road use. The part drilled holes also add to the surface de-gassing. Many customers ask why our holes are only part drilled through the rotor, the answer is that because all original equipment rotors including EBC's are what we call "straight vaned" in other words, the ventilation slots go directly from the outside towards the centre of the disc as they are not "scoop vented" there is absolutely no point in through drilling the disc. Scoop vented rotors require through drilled holes so that the air scooped into the centre core of the rotor can vent out through the holes. If through drilling is done on standard straight vane rotors it often results in an imbalance of the rotor, can weaken the structure and promote cracking of the rotor, that is why we don't "through drill" at EBC.